Guide · Instruments · Reference

Evaluating an old violin, properly.

Buying an old violin without a checklist is expensive. This is the working checklist the desk uses when it looks at an instrument on behalf of a reader.

1. Attribution

Whose instrument is it, and who says so? A label inside a violin is not evidence — labels are frequently misleading and often not original. What matters is a written expert opinion from a recognised authority (a certificate of authenticity), ideally corroborated by publication or by prior sales at a major house.

2. Condition

  • Cracks: are they clean, closed, and stable? Cracks in the top are common; cracks near the soundpost or in the ribs matter more.
  • Neck: is it original, grafted, or replaced? A grafted neck is normal on an old instrument.
  • Varnish: original varnish, or heavily retouched? A restored surface changes value significantly.
  • Arching and thicknesses: has the top been thinned in restoration?
  • Fittings: pegs, tailpiece, chinrest — easy to change, worth checking.

3. Sound

Sound cannot be evaluated in five minutes. Take the instrument home for at least a week. Play the repertoire you actually play. Play in a large room, a small room, and — if possible — with a pianist or a chamber group. Have your teacher listen from the back of the room. An instrument that sounds thrilling under the ear is not always the one that projects.

4. Paperwork

A written certificate of authenticity from a recognised expert. Restoration history where possible. A clear chain of prior ownership. A written condition report. A written invoice with the maker, period, and provenance stated. Anything short of this reduces the resale value materially.

5. The independent opinion

For any serious purchase, pay a second, independent expert — one who is not the seller — to examine the instrument and issue their own written opinion. This is standard practice. Any dealer who refuses this is telling you something important.