1. Attribution
Whose instrument is it, and who says so? A label inside a violin is not evidence — labels are frequently misleading and often not original. What matters is a written expert opinion from a recognised authority (a certificate of authenticity), ideally corroborated by publication or by prior sales at a major house.
2. Condition
- Cracks: are they clean, closed, and stable? Cracks in the top are common; cracks near the soundpost or in the ribs matter more.
- Neck: is it original, grafted, or replaced? A grafted neck is normal on an old instrument.
- Varnish: original varnish, or heavily retouched? A restored surface changes value significantly.
- Arching and thicknesses: has the top been thinned in restoration?
- Fittings: pegs, tailpiece, chinrest — easy to change, worth checking.
3. Sound
Sound cannot be evaluated in five minutes. Take the instrument home for at least a week. Play the repertoire you actually play. Play in a large room, a small room, and — if possible — with a pianist or a chamber group. Have your teacher listen from the back of the room. An instrument that sounds thrilling under the ear is not always the one that projects.
4. Paperwork
A written certificate of authenticity from a recognised expert. Restoration history where possible. A clear chain of prior ownership. A written condition report. A written invoice with the maker, period, and provenance stated. Anything short of this reduces the resale value materially.
5. The independent opinion
For any serious purchase, pay a second, independent expert — one who is not the seller — to examine the instrument and issue their own written opinion. This is standard practice. Any dealer who refuses this is telling you something important.